What Is Viscose?
Viscose, also known as rayon in some markets, is a semi-synthetic fiber that occupies a unique position in the textile world, sitting between fully natural fibers like cotton and silk and fully synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon. It is made from natural cellulose, typically derived from wood pulp, but undergoes significant chemical processing to transform the raw cellulose into a usable textile fiber.
The story of viscose begins in the late 19th century when it was developed as a more affordable alternative to silk. French chemist Hilaire de Chardonnet created the first commercial viscose fiber in 1884, and by the early 20th century, viscose production had become a major textile industry. Today, viscose remains one of the most widely used fibers in the fashion industry, found in everything from everyday t-shirts to high-end designer garments.
The name viscose comes from the viscous organic liquid from which the fiber is made during the production process. In the United States, viscose is commonly referred to as rayon, while in Europe and other markets, the term viscose is more prevalent. Regardless of the name, the fiber and its properties are essentially the same.
How Viscose Is Made
Understanding how viscose is produced helps explain both its advantages and its limitations. The production process begins with harvesting wood, typically from trees like eucalyptus, beech, pine, or bamboo. The wood is chipped and dissolved in a chemical solution to extract the cellulose. This cellulose is then treated with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide to create a thick, honey-like liquid called viscose solution.
The viscose solution is forced through tiny holes in a device called a spinneret, similar to a showerhead, into an acid bath. As the solution passes through the acid, it solidifies into fine filaments of regenerated cellulose fiber. These filaments are then washed, treated, and spun into yarn that can be woven or knitted into fabric.
This chemical-intensive production process is one of the main criticisms of viscose, as it generates hazardous waste and can cause environmental pollution if not managed properly. However, newer production methods like lyocell (marketed as Tencel) use closed-loop systems that recover and reuse the chemical solvents, significantly reducing the environmental impact.
Properties and Characteristics of Viscose
Viscose has several distinctive properties that make it attractive for various textile applications. In terms of feel and appearance, viscose is remarkably similar to natural fibers like cotton and silk. It has a soft, smooth hand feel that is comfortable against the skin and a natural luster that gives garments a subtle sheen. The fiber drapes beautifully, creating flowing, elegant silhouettes that are particularly desirable in dresses, blouses, and skirts.
Viscose is highly absorbent, capable of absorbing up to 50 percent more moisture than cotton. This makes it feel cool and comfortable in warm weather, as it wicks moisture away from the body and allows it to evaporate. This breathability makes viscose an excellent choice for summer clothing, undergarments, and activewear.
The fiber takes dyes exceptionally well, producing rich, vibrant colors that are more intense than what many other fibers can achieve. This dyeability is one reason viscose is popular in the fashion industry, where color is a critical design element. Viscose fabrics maintain their color well through multiple washings when properly cared for.
In terms of weight, viscose is relatively lightweight, making it ideal for layering and for garments where a heavy feel would be undesirable. Despite its light weight, viscose fabric can have excellent coverage and opacity, preventing the see-through appearance that can plague other lightweight fabrics.
Advantages of Viscose
Viscose offers numerous advantages that explain its enduring popularity in the textile industry. Its silk-like feel and appearance make it an affordable luxury. Consumers who want the look and drape of silk without the high price tag often find viscose to be an excellent alternative. The fabric's natural luster and smooth texture create a premium appearance at a fraction of silk's cost.
The versatility of viscose is another major advantage. It can be blended with other fibers like cotton, polyester, spandex, and wool to create fabrics that combine the best properties of multiple materials. A viscose-cotton blend, for example, offers the softness and drape of viscose with the durability of cotton, while a viscose-spandex blend adds stretch and recovery.
Viscose is hypoallergenic and gentle on sensitive skin, making it suitable for people who experience irritation from synthetic fibers. Its natural cellulose base means it does not trigger the static and skin reactions associated with petroleum-based synthetics. This makes viscose a popular choice for underwear, sleepwear, and garments worn directly against the skin.
From a sustainability perspective, viscose has some advantages over fully synthetic fibers. It is biodegradable, meaning it will decompose naturally at the end of its life rather than persisting in landfills for hundreds of years like polyester. It is also made from a renewable resource (wood), unlike petroleum-based synthetics that rely on fossil fuels.
Disadvantages and Limitations
Despite its many positive attributes, viscose has several notable disadvantages that consumers should be aware of. The most significant weakness is its poor performance when wet. Viscose loses up to 50 percent of its strength when wet, which makes it prone to stretching, distortion, and even tearing when laundered improperly. This is why many viscose garments carry dry clean only or hand wash labels.
Viscose tends to wrinkle easily, more so than most synthetic fibers and even more than cotton in some cases. The fabric can emerge from the wash looking crumpled and requires ironing or steaming to restore a smooth appearance. This maintenance requirement can be inconvenient for people who prefer low-maintenance fabrics.
Shrinkage is another common issue with viscose. The fiber can shrink significantly when exposed to heat, whether from hot water washing or tumble drying. Following care label instructions carefully is essential to prevent irreversible shrinkage that can ruin a garment.
The environmental impact of traditional viscose production is a legitimate concern. The chemical process uses carbon disulfide, a toxic substance that can cause health problems for factory workers and environmental damage if released into the air or water. Deforestation is another concern, as the wood pulp used for viscose production can come from unsustainably harvested forests. However, responsible brands are increasingly sourcing their viscose from certified sustainable forests and using cleaner production methods.
Caring for Viscose Garments
Proper care is essential for maintaining the appearance and longevity of viscose clothing. Always check the care label first, as different viscose blends and finishes may have different requirements. As a general rule, hand washing in cold water with a gentle detergent is the safest cleaning method for viscose garments. If machine washing is recommended, use the delicate cycle with cold water and a mesh laundry bag.
Never wring or twist viscose fabric, as this can cause permanent stretching and distortion. Instead, gently press out excess water and lay the garment flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging wet viscose garments, as the weight of the water can stretch the fabric out of shape.
Iron viscose on the reverse side while it is still slightly damp, using a low to medium heat setting. Alternatively, use a garment steamer, which is gentler on the fabric and reduces the risk of scorching or shine marks.
Best Uses for Viscose
Viscose excels in certain applications and is less suitable for others. It is an excellent choice for flowing dresses and skirts, dressy blouses and tops, scarves and lightweight wraps, linings for jackets and coats, summer and warm-weather clothing, and bed sheets and pillowcases. It is less ideal for activewear that will get heavily sweated in, workwear that requires durability and frequent washing, structured garments that need to hold their shape rigidly, and outdoor clothing exposed to rain and moisture.
Conclusion: Is Viscose Worth Choosing?
Viscose is a good material for many applications, offering a beautiful combination of softness, drape, breathability, and affordability that is difficult to match with other fibers. Its silk-like qualities make it a popular choice in fashion, and its natural cellulose base gives it some environmental advantages over fully synthetic alternatives.
However, viscose is not a perfect fabric. Its weakness when wet, tendency to wrinkle, care requirements, and the environmental concerns surrounding its production are all valid considerations. The key to having a good experience with viscose is understanding its limitations and caring for it properly. When used in the right applications and maintained correctly, viscose can be a wonderful addition to your wardrobe.
