Understanding the 585 Hallmark on Jewelry
If you have ever examined a piece of gold jewelry closely, you may have noticed tiny numbers stamped on the inside of a ring band, the clasp of a necklace, or the back of an earring. One of the most common markings you will encounter is the number 585. This small but significant stamp tells you something essential about the quality and composition of the gold in your jewelry. Understanding what 585 means can help you make informed decisions when buying, selling, or appraising gold jewelry, and it can protect you from overpaying for lower-quality pieces or undervaluing treasured heirlooms.
The 585 stamp on jewelry indicates that the piece is made of 14-karat gold. This marking is part of an international system of hallmarks used to denote the purity of precious metals. The number 585 specifically means that the item contains 58.5% pure gold, with the remaining 41.5% consisting of other metals such as copper, silver, zinc, or nickel. These additional metals are alloyed with the gold to create a material that is more durable, harder, and better suited for everyday jewelry than pure gold alone.
The Karat System Explained
To fully understand the 585 marking, it helps to understand the karat system used to measure gold purity. The karat system divides gold into 24 parts. Pure gold is designated as 24 karats, meaning all 24 parts are gold. When gold is alloyed with other metals, the karat number decreases proportionally. For example, 18-karat gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metals, making it 75% pure gold. Similarly, 14-karat gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals, which works out to approximately 58.3% pure gold, rounded to 58.5% for the hallmark.
The relationship between karats and the numerical hallmark system is straightforward. To convert karats to the hallmark number, you divide the karat value by 24 and multiply by 1000. For 14-karat gold, this calculation yields 583.33, which is rounded to 585. Other common hallmarks include 750 for 18-karat gold, 375 for 9-karat gold, and 916 or 917 for 22-karat gold. The numerical system is widely used in Europe and many other parts of the world, while the karat system is more commonly used in the United States and Canada.
Why 14-Karat Gold Is So Popular
14-karat gold, marked with the 585 stamp, is one of the most popular choices for jewelry worldwide, and for good reason. It strikes an excellent balance between gold content and durability. Pure 24-karat gold is relatively soft and prone to scratching, bending, and wear. While 18-karat gold offers a higher gold content, it is still softer than 14-karat gold and comes with a significantly higher price tag. 14-karat gold provides enough gold to maintain a beautiful, rich color while being hard enough to withstand daily wear without significant damage.
The durability of 14-karat gold makes it especially popular for engagement rings, wedding bands, and other pieces of jewelry that are worn every day. Its resistance to scratching and denting means that a 585-stamped ring can maintain its appearance for decades with proper care. Additionally, 14-karat gold is more affordable than higher-karat options, making it accessible to a wider range of consumers. In the United States, 14-karat gold accounts for the majority of gold jewelry sold, reflecting its broad appeal and practical advantages.
The Composition of 585 Gold Alloys
The 41.5% of non-gold metals in a 585 piece plays a crucial role in determining the jewelry's appearance, durability, and other properties. Different combinations of alloying metals produce different colors and characteristics. Yellow gold alloys typically combine gold with copper and silver, which maintain the traditional warm golden color while adding strength. The proportions of copper and silver can be adjusted to create slightly different shades of yellow.
White gold is created by alloying gold with metals such as palladium, nickel, or silver. The resulting alloy has a silvery appearance that resembles platinum, and it is often plated with rhodium to enhance its whiteness and shine. White gold marked 585 contains the same percentage of gold as yellow gold of the same karat, but the alloying metals give it a completely different look. Rose gold, which has become increasingly popular in recent years, is made by combining gold with a higher proportion of copper. The copper gives the alloy a distinctive pinkish-red hue that many find romantic and fashionable.
How to Identify Genuine 585 Gold
While the 585 stamp is a strong indicator of 14-karat gold, it is important to know that not all stamped jewelry is genuine. Counterfeit jewelry sometimes bears fake hallmarks to deceive buyers. There are several methods you can use to verify whether a piece marked 585 is truly 14-karat gold. The most reliable method is to have the piece tested by a professional jeweler or appraiser who can use acid testing, electronic testing, or X-ray fluorescence analysis to determine the exact gold content.
At home, you can perform some basic checks. Genuine gold is not magnetic, so if a piece marked 585 is attracted to a magnet, it may not be real gold. However, this test is not conclusive, as many non-gold metals are also non-magnetic. You can also look for signs of wear that might reveal a base metal underneath, which would indicate gold plating rather than solid gold. The stamp itself should be clean and clearly defined, as sloppy or poorly formed markings can indicate counterfeit jewelry. When making significant purchases, always buy from reputable jewelers who provide certificates of authenticity.
585 Gold in Different Countries
The 585 hallmark is recognized internationally, but different countries have varying regulations regarding gold stamping and testing. In many European countries, including Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom, hallmarking is strictly regulated by government assay offices that test and certify the purity of precious metals before they can be sold. In these countries, a 585 stamp is a reliable guarantee of quality. The United States has less strict hallmarking regulations, relying instead on Federal Trade Commission guidelines that require gold jewelry to be accurately marked but do not mandate independent testing.
In some Asian countries, higher-karat gold is preferred, and 585 gold may be less common. In India and China, for example, 22-karat and 24-karat gold are traditionally favored for jewelry, although 14-karat gold is gaining popularity for its durability and affordability. In the Middle East, 18-karat and 21-karat gold are popular choices. Understanding these regional preferences can be helpful when buying or selling gold jewelry internationally, as the demand for different karat values varies significantly from one market to another.
Caring for Your 585 Gold Jewelry
While 14-karat gold is more durable than higher-karat gold, it still requires proper care to maintain its beauty over time. Regular cleaning with mild soap and warm water can remove oils, dirt, and residue that accumulate with daily wear. Use a soft cloth or a very soft brush to gently clean the surface, and dry the piece thoroughly before storing it. Avoid using harsh chemicals, bleach, or abrasive cleaners, as these can damage the surface of the gold or react with the alloying metals.
Store your 585 gold jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratching. Individual soft pouches or lined jewelry boxes work well for this purpose. Remove your gold jewelry before swimming in chlorinated pools, as chlorine can weaken gold alloys over time. Similarly, remove jewelry before using household cleaning products or engaging in activities that could subject the pieces to hard impacts. With proper care, your 585 gold jewelry can last a lifetime and even be passed down through generations as a cherished family heirloom.
The Value of 585 Gold
Understanding that 585 means 14-karat gold is essential when buying or selling jewelry, as the karat value directly affects the price. The value of a piece of 585 gold jewelry depends on several factors, including its weight, the current market price of gold, and any additional value from gemstones, craftsmanship, or brand prestige. When selling gold jewelry, dealers typically pay based on the gold content by weight, calculated at a percentage of the current spot price of gold.
To estimate the gold value of a 585-stamped piece, you can weigh the item in grams and multiply the weight by 0.585 to determine the pure gold content. Then multiply the pure gold weight by the current price per gram of gold. Keep in mind that dealers and pawn shops typically pay 50% to 80% of the calculated gold value. For pieces with significant artistic or historical value, it may be worth seeking an appraisal from a specialist who can assess the total value beyond the gold content alone.
