Understanding Gold Plated Jewelry
Gold plated jewelry has become an increasingly popular choice for fashion-conscious consumers who want the luxurious look of gold without the hefty price tag. These pieces feature a thin layer of gold applied over a base metal, typically brass, copper, or sterling silver. The result is jewelry that looks virtually identical to solid gold at a fraction of the cost. However, one of the most common questions about gold plated jewelry is whether it tarnishes over time. The answer, unfortunately for gold plating enthusiasts, is yes. Gold plated jewelry can and often does tarnish, but understanding why this happens and how to prevent it can help you enjoy your pieces for much longer.
Tarnishing occurs when the base metal underneath the gold plating reacts with environmental factors such as moisture, oxygen, chemicals, and acids. While the gold layer itself is resistant to tarnishing, the thin nature of the plating means that it can wear through over time, exposing the base metal beneath. Once exposed, the base metal oxidizes and discolors, resulting in the darkening, greening, or dulling that we commonly refer to as tarnish. The rate at which this occurs depends on several factors, including the thickness of the gold plating, the type of base metal used, and how the jewelry is cared for and stored.
Why Gold Plated Jewelry Tarnishes
Several factors contribute to the tarnishing of gold plated jewelry. The primary cause is the gradual wearing away of the gold layer through friction and contact. Every time you put on or take off a gold plated ring, necklace, or bracelet, the gold layer experiences minor abrasion. Over weeks, months, and years of regular wear, these tiny instances of friction accumulate, gradually thinning the gold layer until the base metal is exposed. Areas of jewelry that experience the most contact, such as the inside of ring bands and the backs of pendants, tend to show tarnishing first.
Chemical exposure is another major culprit. Perfumes, lotions, hair products, cleaning agents, and even natural body oils and sweat contain chemicals that can accelerate the deterioration of the gold plating. The acids in perspiration are particularly damaging, which is why some people notice that their gold plated jewelry tarnishes more quickly than others. Individual body chemistry varies, and people whose perspiration has a higher acid content may find that their gold plated pieces lose their luster more rapidly. Chlorine in swimming pools and salt water at the beach are also highly corrosive to gold plating and should be avoided.
The Thickness Factor
Not all gold plated jewelry is created equal, and the thickness of the gold layer is the single most important factor in determining how long a piece will resist tarnishing. Gold plating thickness is measured in microns, and there is a wide range of quality in the market. The cheapest gold plated jewelry may have a plating as thin as 0.5 microns, which can begin to show wear within weeks of regular use. Higher-quality gold plated jewelry features plating of 2 to 3 microns, which can last significantly longer with proper care.
Gold vermeil is a specific category of gold plated jewelry that must meet higher standards. To be classified as vermeil, a piece must have a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns applied over sterling silver rather than a less expensive base metal. Because of its thicker plating and higher-quality base metal, gold vermeil typically lasts longer and tarnishes less quickly than standard gold plated jewelry. Understanding these distinctions can help consumers make more informed purchasing decisions and set realistic expectations for the longevity of their jewelry.
Gold Plated vs. Gold Filled vs. Solid Gold
To put gold plated jewelry in perspective, it helps to compare it with other types of gold jewelry. Gold filled jewelry contains a significantly thicker layer of gold than gold plated pieces. By law, gold filled items must contain at least 5% gold by weight, which translates to a gold layer that is 50 to 100 times thicker than typical gold plating. As a result, gold filled jewelry is far more resistant to tarnishing and can last for decades with proper care. The gold layer is mechanically bonded to the base metal through heat and pressure, creating a much more durable connection than the electroplating process used for gold plated jewelry.
Solid gold jewelry, whether 10-karat, 14-karat, or 18-karat, does not tarnish under normal conditions because the entire piece is made of gold alloy rather than a base metal with a gold coating. However, even solid gold can show some discoloration if exposed to harsh chemicals or extreme conditions, particularly lower-karat pieces that contain a higher percentage of reactive metals. Pure 24-karat gold is virtually immune to tarnishing but is rarely used for jewelry due to its softness. Each type of gold jewelry offers a different balance of cost, durability, and resistance to tarnishing.
How to Prevent Tarnishing
While tarnishing is inevitable for gold plated jewelry over time, there are many steps you can take to slow the process and extend the life of your pieces. The most important practice is to remove your gold plated jewelry before activities that expose it to moisture, chemicals, or abrasion. Take off your jewelry before showering, swimming, exercising, cleaning, or applying lotions and perfumes. If you use fragrances or body products, apply them first and allow them to dry completely before putting on your jewelry.
Proper storage is equally important. Store your gold plated jewelry in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Individual soft pouches, zip-lock bags with anti-tarnish strips, or lined jewelry boxes that prevent pieces from touching each other are ideal storage solutions. Exposure to air accelerates tarnishing, so keeping pieces sealed when not in use can significantly extend their lifespan. Some people store their gold plated jewelry in small plastic bags with a small piece of chalk or a silica gel packet, which help absorb moisture from the air.
Cleaning Gold Plated Jewelry
Regular gentle cleaning can help maintain the appearance of gold plated jewelry and remove contaminants that contribute to tarnishing. The safest cleaning method is to wipe the piece with a soft, lint-free cloth after each wear to remove oils and residue. For more thorough cleaning, use a very mild soap diluted in warm water. Dip the jewelry briefly, gently wipe it with a soft cloth, rinse with clean water, and dry it thoroughly. Never use abrasive materials, harsh chemicals, or ultrasonic cleaners on gold plated jewelry, as these can strip the gold layer.
If your gold plated jewelry has already begun to tarnish, your options for restoration are more limited. Minor tarnishing may be improved with gentle cleaning, but if the gold plating has worn through to the base metal, no amount of cleaning will restore the original appearance. In such cases, the piece can sometimes be re-plated by a professional jeweler, which involves applying a new layer of gold through the electroplating process. However, re-plating adds to the cost of ownership and may not be economical for inexpensive fashion jewelry.
Setting Realistic Expectations
Gold plated jewelry is best understood as fashion jewelry with a limited lifespan rather than a long-term investment piece. With excellent care, high-quality gold plated jewelry can maintain its appearance for one to three years of regular wear. Less expensive pieces with thinner plating may show signs of tarnishing within months. By understanding these limitations and caring for your pieces properly, you can enjoy the beauty of gold plated jewelry while getting the most value for your investment.
For pieces that you intend to wear daily or keep for many years, consider investing in gold filled or solid gold jewelry, which offer significantly greater durability and resistance to tarnishing. Reserve gold plated pieces for occasional wear, special occasions, or trendy styles that you may not want to wear long-term. This approach allows you to enjoy a varied jewelry collection while ensuring that your most-worn pieces maintain their beauty over time.
